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Photo: Jennifer Tzar
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Maine Attraction: Three of the State's Best Lakes
Forget about the ocean. The lakes are where you'll
find the real Maine. Here, an essential guide to three of the state's best
By Jessica Dineen
KEZAR LAKE REGION
Maine's best lakes are remote enough that you often need to mention a couple of towns to locate
one. Kezar is near Center Lovell, close to Fryeburg—cut off from the world beyond except for a single road that
passes an unassuming boat landing and marina.
A cabin on the lake
Quisisana Since 1917, this 47-acre haven, with its 10-room inn and 37 whitewashed, wicker-furnished
cabins, has been a shrine to music. Nearly all who work here are accomplished students from the finest conservatories
in the country. Every night after dinner, the employees hold a concert in the performance hall whose tall windows
overlook the lake. Pleasant Point Rd., Center Lovell; 207/925-3500, fax 207/925-1004; doubles from $230, including
meals.
A room—or dinner—at the inn
Center Lovell Inn A big night out for camp dwellers is a drive to this 1805 inn to indulge
in baked Brie en casserole and rack of lamb. The rooms are not without their froufrou quotient, but the windows
frame sweeping views of the White Mountains. Rte. 5, Center Lovell; 800/777-2698 or 207/925-1575; doubles from
$142; dinner for two $75.
Lake House A short drive from Kezar, the white
clapboard seven-room Lake House was built as a tavern in the late 1700's. Chef-innkeeper Michael Myers serves some
of the most delicious food in Maine, such as roast duckling with blueberry and blackberry sauce. 686 Waterford
Rd., Waterford Village; 800/223-4182 or 207/583-4182; doubles from $110, including breakfast; dinner for two $85.
Where to get a bison burger
Tut's General Store This is a real general store that will "fix you right up"
with poker chips, livestock feed, or a bison burger (more protein and less fat than beef). Hefty breakfasts also
served all day long. Rte. 35, North Waterford; 800/281-4437 or 207/583-4447; lunch for two $10.
Breakfast with the locals
AJ's Everything Walk by the two wrinkled old men sitting on upside-down buckets just
outside the door and into a large pine-log dining room with sturdy wooden tables. The bacon is crisp and the pancakes
have the freshest blueberries in town. Rte. 5, North Lovell; 207/928-2454; breakfast for two $10.
Wicked Good Store & Restaurant
As greasy as it is good. Like many stores in the area, it doubles as a gas station. Rte. 5, Lovell; 207/925-3090;
breakfast for two $6.
Getting out on the lake
Kezar Lake Marina Rent a canoe ($25 a day) or a 24-foot pontoon ($200 a day), and ask
Lee for help finding the lake's inlet and outlet rivers; he can also direct you to the Lovell town beach. Before
you head out, grab an ice cream cone from the take-out window at the Loon's Nest, a restaurant at the marina.
W. Lovell Rd., Lovell; 207/925-3000.
Off-lake adventures
Beech Hill Farm & Bison Ranch Take a tour to see Chief Chadwick and Irish Warrior,
award-winning North American bison, or just visit the shop to pick up a bison-wool robe. 630 Valley Rd., Waterford;
207/583-2515.
Deertrees Theatre & Cultural Center The performing arts center—which stages bluegrass, vaudeville, and
chamber music as well as plays—is hidden in the village of Harrison, a half-hour drive from Center Lovell. Deertrees
Rd., Harrison; 207/583-6747.
Hedgehog Hill
Farm Every summer Sunday there's a lecture on such topics as "herbs for pleasure and use." Bring
a picnic to eat in the flower gardens. 54 Hedgehog Hill Rd., Sumner; 207/388-2341.
Kezar
Lake Handcrafts Check out the baskets, pottery, weaving, and woodcarvings. At the intersection of Rtes.
5 and 5A, Center Lovell; 207/925-1665.
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